Friends, And The Little Smoky River
Frank Wood was intrigued when he first heard of an Arctic Grayling fishery in Alberta. He simply had to head to The Little Smoky River to try it out. Here's his reasons why it has become one of his favorites. Images and hatch chart too.
By Frank Wood
I used to hunt birds during the months of September and October in Alberta's Parkland areas. I started this habit after I moved to Alberta in 1979, with my best friend Ron Anderson. How we survived these trips is the subject matter of other stories, but Ron was transferred to Ontario and I started hunting with my negotiating adversary from work, Gary Wolfe. He too was transferred. I had one more hunting partner left. My fly-fishing mentor Bob Cormier. This also ended as he took on a project to illustrate a book on Mayflies. He would collect his specimens during our summer fishing trips, and start his preliminary sketches in September.
I was either going to have to find new friends to hunt with, or go it alone. There were other factors that came into play when I decided to quit. The amount of time I spent fly fishing started to skyrocket, while the amount of time I spent at home developing lasting marital memories started to decline. It was also around this time that we were expecting our first child, so I knew that something had to give, and it wasn't going to be the fishing.
Up to this point, my fishing season naturally ended when my hunting season started. This wasn't the case anymore. The river fly fishing opportunities around Edmonton in the fall were mostly limited to chucking streamers for Browns. This is not my style, and I found myself feeling pangs of regret when it came time to pack away the rod and gear for the season. I thought that if I could have one more really good day, the memories themselves would carry me through the long winter months.
I found that opportunity to have regretless closure of my fly fishing season in the form of the Little Smoky River. Carl Hunt, Regional Fisheries Biologist from Edson gave a presentation to the Edmonton Trout Fishing Club one winter night about Arctic Grayling fishing in Alberta. I had already been exposed to them in the Wildhay River, but this experience had only left me wondering if there was anywhere in Alberta where a stable population of decent size (36 cm +) Grayling still existed. Then Carl talked about the Little Smoky's unique fishery. Well now, that got my attention. I even moved closer to the front of the classroom, so I could hear and retain every word that Carl spoke. I assaulted Carl with several questions after the presentation, and left that meeting determined to fish the river as soon as possible.
At this time I started to make a new friend. His name was Gary Schaupmeyer. I had known him as a fellow Trout Club member for some time, but until that winter when our paths crossed at an ice-fishing course, we hadn't really fished together. Gary taught me that I didn't need to treat each fly fishing outing as a personal race against the clock. He taught me how to be comfortable with the whole experience and relax and enjoy it. I also learned that Gary had fished the Little Smoky previously, more importantly he knew where to go. The only thing left to do was coordinate our social schedules.
On the morning of October 7th 1994, we piled our gear into Gary's van (a little later than anticipated), and headed Northwest to fish the river for the weekend. The drive to Fox Creek was a long one, but we were rested up and our eagerness to fish the river prompted plenty of conversation along the way. After a leisurely stop for breakfast, we made the last leg of our journey down to Grizzly Junction.
"The fly fishing, in a word, was fantastic"
When we arrived, I thought I recognized a certain Landcruiser parked there. I then saw the predators gearing up for a days fishing, and after exchanging pleasantries; we decided to all fish together. After a brief hike we arrived at our fishing spot for the day. It was a deep run about 45 metres long. I couldn't believe it. How could this stretch of water provide enough fishing for a group of 5 serious fly fisherman. Well it did. We fished the run all day within metres of each other, only leaving the water when the cold started to make our toes hurt; or in Gary's case when he felt a nap coming on.
The fishing in a word, was fantastic. It did however, start out a little slow. We couldn't get the Grayling to rise to a dry fly (small wonder due to the cold water temperature), but Gary was using a bead head hare's ear nymph and doing quite well. Not to long after that, the Grayling started to rise to our Adams Irresistible's and we caught one after another. The only pause in the action was when we took the time to tie on a fresh fly, although we caught quite a few Grayling on "drowned" imitation.
From start to finish I caught and released 72 Grayling ranging in size from 33 to 48 cm long. Many of the fish would come clear out of the water to take the fly, as well jump several times after being hooked. All in all it was a magical day, and one that I will never forget. Gary and I fished the same stretch of the river the next day, and only caught a little over 20 Grayling apiece. Little wonder since some of the fish were no doubt suffering from a sore mouth since the day before.
To prove that my first day on the river wasn't a fluke, I have fished it many times since and had the same results in many different sections. After having a day or two like this on the Little Smoky River in the second week in October, I don't have a problem hanging up my rod for the season - regret free.
History
The story of the Little Smoky Fishery is one of success. The river has produced incredible fishing for Grayling and Bull Trout for many years, but unlike the rivers of the Athabasca system to the south; the fishery is still intact. One of the reasons is accessibility. Only recently has the oil and timber industries opened up the area through development, allowing the average person to access the river with a regular passenger vehicle. I also believe that the traveling required to get there ( 330 km from Edmonton), has been enough to discourage a casual trip to the river.
The other main reason is that the river has had many friends and guardians who have recognized its unique fishery and the potential for over-exploitation. Darryl Smith and members of the Valleyview Fish and Game Association, as well as many other organizations successfully lobbied the provincial government for special regulations to protect the fishery. In 1989 the government responded by designating the upper 96 km of the river as catch and release. 1996 saw the catch and release area extended another 20 km downstream.
The Grayling are thriving under these regulations with catch rates as high as 7 to 11 fish per hour. The opportunity to catch 10 to 15 fish per day that exceed 30 cm in length is very real on this river. As an added bonus, there are some truly huge Bull Trout lurking in the shadows ready to make a run at a well placed streamer, or the occasional hooked Grayling.
River Characteristics
The Little Smoky River originates in the Boreal foothills east of Grande Cache. There are extensive muskeg areas with springs in the upper stretches of the river; feeding into it and giving the water a tint similar to the color of weak tea. The river flows for 155 km before it enters the Smoky River, a tributary to the Peace River. The river opens to angling in the middle of June, and the best fishing, at least for big Grayling is from the end of August until the second or third week in October.
There are many trails winding through the Lodgepole Pine and White Aspen that dominate the area, paralleling the river and provide innumerable fishing opportunities. The whole area is rich in wildlife other than fish, with the opportunity to view Moose, Wolf, Elk, Black and Grizzly Bears, White-tailed and Mule Deer, and Ruffed Grouse. Of course, expect to see Gray Jays and Squirrels around the campsites.
Access and Accommodation
The Little Smoky River can be accessed by taking the Amoco-Bigstone Road 30 km SW of Fox Creek. There is a forestry campground at Smoke Lake, and primitive campsites at Grizzly Junction and Tony Creek. Motel accommodation is available in Fox Creek, Whitecourt and Valleyview. There are also many gas stations and food stores located in these towns.
Little Smoky Hatch Chart